2024
Namibia
Photography and Biodiversity Tour
A mouse in the Frankfurt Airport
Part 1: Frankfurt, Windhoek, and Bagatelle
On our first day in Namibia, we landed in Windhoek and were whisked away to the lovely River Crossing Inn, a place we'd visited last year during a spontaneous herping trip. This time around, the weather was more forgiving, allowing us to enjoy the beautiful vistas without the intense heat of our previous visit. Although we didn't spot any snakes this time, the serene environment made for a perfect start to our adventure.
After settling into our rooms, we gathered on the terrace for a delightful lunch while I journaled and enjoyed my first of many rock shandies. The lodge, perched atop a hill, provided stunning panoramic views, even from the shower! Later, we explored the surrounding area in search of critters. While we didn't find the flap-necked chameleon we were hoping for, we did come across some Pachydactylus reconditis, a species endemic to the Windhoek area, which was a thrilling find. The evening concluded with a bit of night photography as I tested my new flash setup on a peacefully sleeping African caper white butterfly (Belenois aurota).
African caper white butterfly (Belenois aurota).
The following morning, we were up early to catch the sunrise from the deck, a truly peaceful moment shared with some beautiful Rosy-faced lovebirds. After breakfast, we embarked on a drive through the stark yet beautiful Kalahari to Bagatelle, a place with a unique approach to wildlife conservation. Despite its somewhat artificial setup, learning about the local black rhino and observing wild kudu casually approach us by the pool were highlights of our stay.
Windhoek aloe (Aloe literalis), Namibian endemic
Feeding wild kudu at Bagatelle
Our evening was spent at Bagatelle’s cheetah rescue, where we got up close with these magnificent creatures during feeding time. Although I usually prefer seeing animals in the wild, understanding the necessity of such rescues made the experience more poignant. We ended the day with a sundowner in the desert, watching a breathtaking sunset that painted the sky in hues of orange and pink.
A captive cheetah running for dinner
In addition, Bagatelle offers a morning walk with the San Bushmen. Also known as the Basarwa or Khwe, the San are indigenous people renowned for their deep connection to the land and vast traditional knowledge of the natural environment. Predominantly residing in the Kalahari Desert across Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa, the San are one of the oldest cultures on Earth, with a heritage that traces back over 20,000 years. They are distinguished by their unique languages characterized by click consonants and a subsistence lifestyle that includes hunting game and gathering wild plants. Despite modern challenges, the San maintain a rich oral tradition and spiritual beliefs closely tied to the earth, showcasing resilience and a profound understanding of ecological balance.
San hunter
San village
Part 2: Luderitz
We travelled on to Luderitz where we had three main targets. First is the ghost town of Kolmanskop.
Kolmanskop emerged in the early 20th century during a rush that followed the discovery of diamonds in the area in 1908. Driven by the enormous wealth of the first diamond miners, the town quickly flourished, becoming a thriving community with luxurious homes, a hospital, a ballroom, a school, a power station, and the first tram in Africa.
The architecture at Kolmanskop is characterized by German colonial styles, reflecting the origins of its early inhabitants. At its peak, the town had amenities that were incredibly modern for its time and location, including an ice factory, a bowling alley, and even a theater.
The town's fortune declined after World War I when diamond prices dropped and richer diamond deposits were found further south. By the mid-1950s, the town was completely abandoned, leaving it to the mercy of the desert. Over the decades, the sand has been steadily encroaching upon the buildings, filling rooms with drifts and creating a surreal landscape that has become a magnet for photographers and tourists.
Today, Kolmanskop is a popular destination for those interested in history, photography, and the stark beauty of architectural ruins being reclaimed by nature. The ghost town is often included in tours of Namibia for its unique backdrop and its poignant reminder of the transient nature of boomtowns. Visitors can explore the buildings, some of which have been partially restored, and learn about the history of the town and its inhabitants through guided tours that reveal the human stories behind this once-bustling community now frozen in time.
Grasplatz where the first diamond was found
That afternoon we went for an excursion to rustle up some of my favorite vipers- the many-horned adder (Bitis cornuta). The setting sun let us get artsy with our photos.
Bitis cornuta
The next morning we hopped on a catamaran to go out to Halifax Island to see the colony of African penguins (Spheniscus demersus). Halifax Island in Namibia is a vital breeding ground for these endangered birds which live exclusively along the southwestern coast of Africa. African penguins face threats from overfishing, pollution, and habitat destruction, contributing to their declining numbers. They breed throughout the year, with peaks from March to May, engaging in monogamous relationships where both parents care for the young. Tourism to the island allows for respectful observation of these penguins, raising awareness of their conservation needs while providing visitors a glimpse into the unique biodiversity of Namibia's coastal ecosystems.
Interestingly, I think Halifax Island is the only place where flamingos and penguins are found in the same microhabitat. I know they’re in close proximity elsewhere, but this is the only place I know of where they can be seen together.
African penguin and greater flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)
Part 3: Aus
The drive from Luderitz to, well, anywhere is a long drive, so to break up the drive we stopped at Aus. The Desert Horse Inn is one of my favorite places in Namibia. It’s named for the famous desert-dwelling horses in the area, but we were there for the wildlife and not the horses. We didn’t find all of our targets, but we got some nice herpetofauna including this dwarf beaked snake (Dipsina multimaculata).
Dwarf beaked snake (Dipsina multimaculata)
Part 4: Sossusvlei
Sossusvlei, nestled within the Namib-Naukluft National Park in Namibia, is a mesmerizing landscape of towering red sand dunes and vast salt pans. Renowned for its otherworldly beauty, Sossusvlei is a photographer's paradise and a haven for nature enthusiasts. The iconic dunes, some reaching heights of over 300 meters, are sculpted by the wind into ever-changing shapes and patterns, creating a surreal and captivating environment. Visitors can hike to the top of these dunes for panoramic views of the surrounding desert, or explore the ancient clay pan of Deadvlei, dotted with skeletal camel thorn trees contrasting against the white salt floor and vivid blue sky. Sossusvlei offers an unforgettable experience of the raw, untouched beauty of the Namib Desert, where the silence and grandeur of the landscape inspire awe and wonder in all who venture there.
Part 4.5: Sossus to Swakop
Travel days don’t have to be dull days. We spent one full day driving from Sossusvlei to Swakopmund. We made two stops on the way to the coast and both had some wonderful wildlife interactions.
First was a small section of dune- our last chance at a dune lark (Calendulauda erythrochlamys) which is the only bird endemic to Namibia. We had been looking for them throughout the dunes of Sossusvlei, but only saw footprints in the sand. Fortunately, at this last patch of dune, we got lucky!
Dune lark (Calendulauda erythrochlamys)
We only had one last stop in mind before we got to the coast and that was to a little roadside shop called McGregor's Bakery for their famous apple pie. McGregor's is in a cluster of buildings theoretically called a “town” named Solitaire. It seems as though the shop keeps the whole economy alive there. Evidently Mr. Moose McGreggor was originally from Scotland and brought his recipe for apple pie when he arrived in Namibia. He taught the recipe to his kids and they have carried on the tradition after his death. Our guide talked this place up so much, we were all excited to try the pie.
Our guide had also told me that there was a large colony of friendly ground squirrels at Solitaire so I was really excited to get photos. When we arrived, however, I saw a sleek, blonde body run across the road- the ground squirrels had moved out and a family of yellow mongooses moved in! I grabbed my camera and had a lovely time laying on my belly and photographing them as they scampered from bush to book, groomed each other, and even approached me to see what I was all about. After all, I can get apple pie back home. I can’t see yellow mongooses there!
Yellow mongoose (Cynictis penicillata)